How can I fix and/or repairthe paint on my walls?

started to prime a room i'm about to paint. the existing paint aborbed the primer like a dry sponge. but now the existing paint and the moist new primer is now easy to peal off the wall right down to the dry wall. What do I need to do so I can prime and paint this room. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.How can I fix and/or repairthe paint on my walls?
Had this same problem. you need to strip (scrape, etc.) the old pain off. Otherwise, the new paint has nothing to grip onto.





Rough up the subsurface before repainting. Prime again with a ';gripper'; primer.





Good luck.How can I fix and/or repairthe paint on my walls?
Check out this guide for tips
You have run into a condition that I have not seen for many years, and this may not even be the same issue at that, but lets see if I can help. First of all some questions and some suggestions:





1. You did not say how old the home was, nor what part of the country you were from, nor did yoiu identify if these rooms were a part of the orginal new construction, - or of a later addition or remodeling.. But, since we are dealing with drywall here rather than Lath %26amp; plaster I will assume that the house was built after 1965.





2 .I assume you are using a latex, (water based) primer. Was there evidence of a sealer of anykind on the wall - perhaps an orangy/yellowish brown stained sort of presentation - almost looked like water damage? If there is, and you have and atomizer to spray a mist of water on the wall do so the water should cling to the wall and then run down the wall face. What you may be lookng at is the residue of an old beetle wing varnish/ sealer. Since for those who could afford it - wall paper was very much in vogue for the next 40 years.





This is old school stuff. One of the preps for hanging wall paper from the 30's - early 50's in some areas was to take wheat or flax flour and mix it with equal parts of beetle wing varnish, ( which had a a slightly golden patina to it ), and mineral spirits to cut the mix enough to make it thin enough to brush on the wall surface, the mineral spirits were fast drying and helped to set the wall prep quickly.





Bulk glues used at that time we generally made of the same flour base as the wall prep, plus glutins from boiled animal horns %26amp; hooves - similar in chemistry to - you got it - beetle wing %26amp; carapice varnish - That same hard durable liquid that was so excellent for finishing furniture %26amp; millwork,and was the forerunner of shellac, which was the forerunner of the polyurethanes and super acrylics we use today. We still use modern day formulations of shellac, and Marine Varnish to this very day





So how does all this help you? Well you problem is about the direct opposite of a problem that Plasterer's have to deal with on a lot of restoration projects - especialy schools build in the 30's, 40's, and 50's. They have to deal with, on occasion ';Hot spots'; in existing plaster walls and ceilings, these ';Hot spots'; are areas which are not necessarily delaminated, nor are they ';rotten'; it's just that the lime in the plaster is reacting with what ever moisture or material that comes into contact with it - chemically, and the chemically reaction produces heat - which sometimes forms blisters or flaking of the surface treatment, but usually you get what is called a ';dead spot'; on the wall, a place where the sheen disappears, and the pigmentation goes flat. It's as if that spot on the wall just died.





What is the cure. The cure is a pink liquid that is I believe is market under the name of ';Tite Bond'; it is sold wherever Plaster %26amp; Drywall Contractor's buy their equipment %26amp; supplies.. Look in the Business Yellow Pages for Plaster Supplier Outlets - Retail. THe liquid is PINK is color. As best as I can remember it is called ';Tite Bond';. Tell them you are looking for a bonding agent that you can apply by utility brush to an entire interior wall, (and give him the square foot dimensions of the room, (just tell him its an 8'-0'; high interior plaster wall.





Make sure you buy enough. Whike you are there find out what size containers the suff comes in. Gallon cans'; 5 gallon cans? What? Find out what you need - he can tell you. - and then see if you can buy extra, and if you have un opened containers - can you return them for a re-fund of your money???





I always do that - buy mnor that I thinlk I'm going to need and take the extra back, or keep it so I can do touch op - or repairs later.





Application: Buy a thow away paint roller pan, a paint roller and extension handle and two roller heads. Again, I'd find the guy in the paint department at Lowes, or your own Harware store who is the ';go to'; guy, and tell him you have some glue like stuff to spread on your walls at home to prep for painting - and waht does he recommend - since you want thr rolls to be smooth , - but you also need to be able to do the rool it on the wall thing while you are young. (I suggest you bring some of the tite bond with you so he can pour some of it out, and see the viscosity of the fluid he is going to be dealing with.


Prep %26amp; Application:





OK then, You now have your tools, and your product. Make sure you have proper ventilation, goggles, a tyveck body suit with hood %26amp; gloves, and boots. The room is emptied out of fruniture %26amp; misc. Drop cosths are all down. Doors, windows, trim, baseboard, hardware and light fixtires, and all light fictures and windows are taped off/. Light switches %26amp; outlets, (including TV %26amp; Telephone outlet covers are removed %26amp; taped shut.





Brush walls down with a bristl room, and wash walls with degreaser, walls should dry quickly..You should be ready to go.





Apply the Titie Bond. Go for uniform Coverage.





Tips: I prefer to do all the cut-in work first - then work seems to ';fly'; by the time I am down to the roll the ';big spots part.





I immediately do a 1st coat over areas that I know will get extra ';traffic'; like the area around the light switch, the outside corner in the room - etc - along with the cut-in work.





All done? Let her dry accoding to manufacturer's instructions and paint.





I think this will work for you just fine, If for some reason, this is too much work, re-post, and I can give you two or three other options. However, based On what I read into your question, this seemed the best way to proceed. Good luck.





I'm pulling for you.
seems like you have mixed paints oil %26amp; water base paints. is the house old like over 30 years old, because back then they used to use oil base paint. check it out. if paint has buble up in certain areas mostly that's the case. i would recomend to sand down the paint down to the dry wall and start all over again. good luck.
Use Kill Stain to prime
A clean wall is best to begin the painting process. Try washing the walls with a solution of Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) and HOT HOT water. This cleans the grease and other dirt off the wall, and makes it so much better to prime and paint.


The best primer I have ever used is Zinsser oil based primer. It sticks well, and is a great stain blocker. Any latex paint will adhere to it, and you get a nice, even finish. Fast drying time too!





Make sure you have some mineral spirits to wash your brush with. Just toss the roller when you're done!
try putting lining paper on the walls before you paint them.
You may have to use sandpaper on the previous paint in order for the primer to get a good roughed up surface to attach to.
The paint you apply is only as good as the surface to which it is applied. If you can peel off the existing paint after putting primer on it I suggest that you take a spay bottle and a six inch putty knife and spray an area and scrape it off, do the entire room like this of you will have problems and waste your time and material repainting over this bad surface. Once it is scraped off, let the walls dry and scuff sand them with a sponge block sander so its relatively smooth. Then use a decent quality flat or matte flat paint (you don't need primer, this will adhere to drywall just as well) and cut it in with a brush and roll it out with a roller on an extension pole (this is allot easier on your back).